Ich Liebe Berlin

I love Berlin.

Berlin is massive, so massive that it is actually it's own German state with an area of 344 square miles!

When I first went to Berlin in 2012, I spent less than 36 total hours there and I hated it.  I thought it was a dump.  It rained the whole time and the place was dreary.  As I look back in retrospect, that my opinion of Berlin wasn't fair.  When I went back last summer, we stayed for five days in the city and I fell wholeheartedly in love.  What I thought made Berlin ugly (the graffiti and battered buildings) was what made it uniquely Berlin.  The city, as we all know, has not had the best history and what we see today is the story of Berlin.

There is so much to do in Berlin and I suggest you do everything you can possibly do in your trip to the capital of Germany.  I suggest staying more than two days though you can see most of all the touristy stuff in two days if you are determined!

Take a walking tour!

We took a walking tour that met at our hostel in Berlin (East7 located in Prenzlauer Berg).  There were two different tours we could take, the first was only a few hours and was free but we opted for the 6 hour, 12 Euro one which was worth every penny.  Our tour guide, Jonathon was awesome, very knowledgeable and hilarious.  We saw every major spot in Berlin including parts of the Berlin Wall, Check Point Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, New Synagogue, Museum Island, Humboldt University (where the Nazi burned books--across the street is tables full of books that are sold everyday to ensure that books will always remain despite what has happened in the past), and the
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (to name a few).

New Synagogue

Jewish Children Memorial

Street Art

Berlin Wall-East and West Boarder

Jewish Memorial

Me and Allison in front of Brandenburg Gate at the end of our tour

Museum Island

This was my favorite spot to be in Berlin.  It is absolutely beautiful.  The layout of the Museums and the Berlin Dome make for a picturesque spot.  There is the Old and New Museum, the Old National Gallery, Pergamon Museum, and Bode Museum.  You can get a museum pass for a single day or three days (Between 18 and 24 Euros) and you can also get a Berlin Card and get other great discounts!

We got a day pass and didn't realize it until about three hours before all the museums closed so we did a very fast pace tour of them.  It wasn't awful though, we saw lots of beautiful art and even the famous bust of Nefertiti!

My personal favorite museum is the Old National Gallery or Alte Nationalgalerie.

It which houses Monets and my personal favorite, Adolph Menzel.  He painted my favorite painting:

Flötenkonzert Friedrichs des Großen in Sanssouci or Flute Concert for Friedrichs (roughly translated!)

But you can see other great works of Art from lots of different and immensely talented artists!

The TV Tower

Seen from virtually everywhere in Berlin, this is a great way to see every inch of Berlin.  Get in line to take an elevator to the top to see what you can.  The ticket to the top will cost you about 13 Euros and you can spend as much time as you want, they even have a bar! Naturally, they have a gift shop too and lots of history to read.  The TV tower is essentially their version of the Empire State building so if you'd want to see that, you'll want to see this.

Brandenburg gate and the Tiergarten

"Ein Bier, bitte"

"One beer, please" :)

Beer is considered a food in Germany.  It's the home of the first beer and oldest breweries in the world and they are VERY serious about it.  They should be, it's the most delicious in the world.  While Allison and I were there we made a rule that we couldn't drink the same beer without having tried a new one.  So basically, no repeats!  Naturally we tried lots and lots!

Here is a list of bottled Beer we would highly recommend:

**Berliner Kindl
Schneider Weisse
Rothaus Tannen Zaepflen (not my favorite but Allison liked it)
Schoefferhofer-Hefe Weizen
Paulaner (this is on tap)
Astra
JW Augustiner
Lagerbier Hall
Halleroeder
Ottinger
Beck's (Obviously...)

Lots of places brew their own beer so here is a list of the popular Brew Housed also known as BrauHaus :)

Alte Mainmuehle-Würzburg
Würzburger Hofbraeu
Brauhaus Mitte-Berlin
**Hofbräuhaus-Munich

Now I feel like a legitimate alcoholic but when in Rome, right?
Also try the Radlers.  They also aren't as strong as the other beers, if you want to take it easy or you aren't a huge drinker.

**Personal favorites

To The Castle!!

This area is by far my favorite place on earth.  Nestled at the foothill of the Swiss Alps (you can actually see both Austria and Switzerland from the Castle), you will never see more breathtaking landscape.  Just thinking about it makes me want to take a deep breath just like I would have there getting all the fresh mountain air that I can into my lungs.  It still blows my mind that people live in such a enchanting area and you can imagine why someone would want to build the worlds most famous castle there.

The train from Munich to Füssen takes two hours.  Definitely grab a snack at the train station before you leave because the train is a regional one and doesn't have food.  Once you get there you can either take a bus or taxi up to the castle or you can walk.  I have done both.  Obviously the first two options cost money.  This last time, we dropped our stuff off at the hostel then decided to walk which was the best decision of the trip.  There are so many picture worthy views and is flat until you get to the castles, yes two!  The lesser known one (Hohenschwangau) is a quick up hill walk, Neuschwanstein is much bigger.

Allow yourself 30 minutes up to an hour for the tour depending on how fast you want to hike up there.  You can also take another bus and that also will cost you.  The last bus down leaves the top at 6pm so if you don't want to walk down I suggest taking an earlier tour.   The first time I went to the Castle we didn't know that and had to walk down.  That wouldn't have been a problem if hadn't started to pour, hail and thunder like crazy.  I wish I was making that up but it makes for one hell of a memory.

You must pay to get into the castle and I suggest you do even though it's a rather quick tour with lots of stair walking but the grandeur of the castle is well worth it.  You can get tickets to see the castles separately or together.  If you are going for the first time, see both castles.  Tours are given in English you just have to make sure you pick the time on the screen with a British Flag next to it.  You will never see an American flag so always look for the British...it means English!

Taken during the tour of Neuschwanstein

Next to Hohenschwangau is a huge lake.  You can swim in it or rent a boat or lay on the little beach there.  I haven't done any of that but you will want to if it's hot out.  The water is crystal clear and gorgeous!  On your way down from Hohenschwangau, there will be a little place where you can sit, take in the scenery and take pictures.

When you do get up to Neuschwanstein, follow the signs, before or after, to the bridge.  It's another hike but worth all the views.  Your pictures will look just like the calendars!

In the summer, it will always be crowded.  The castle attracts more than a million people every year so there will be no getting around that but don't let that hold you back.  This is one place you absolutely must go and see for yourself.

**FUN FACT** During WWII, Neuschwanstein was used to house thousands of pieces of art stolen from Europe.  They will not tell you that on the tour!  Go watch Monuments Men!!

On your way back down, if you are walking, do not stop at the little restaurant.  It's super pricy and not worth it.  Catch the bus back into Füssen and eat there.

Bavaria!!

Germany is made up of 11 regions, Bavaria is probably the most known of them.  It's nestled in Germany's bottom right corner and it is absolutely beautiful!  This is the area that I have spent the most amount of time while I was there visiting Würzburg, Nuremberg, Munich, Dachau, and Füssen (the train stop for Nueschwanstein though it's located in Schwangau about three miles away).  I love spending time in Bavaria because it's scenery is the prettiest and is the embodiment of Germany.
Here is a few of my favorite places and things to do there.

Munich

The home of BMW and the largest city in Bavaria has lots to see and do and can be budget friendly!

BMW Welt (World)
This place is essentially heaven on earth for me because I couldn't love BMW more.  It's right off the Olympic park U station.  You. Cannot. Miss. It. Both literally and figuratively.  You will see the large cylinder building with the logo atop of it and the impressive building where they show all their cars including the Mini Cooper and Rolls Royce (both part of the BMW Group).  You can get into the cars (they are even on! Why? I don't know but it's cool) but not the Rolls, it has a fence around it... I wonder why...Anyways, there's a gift shop and upstairs is the new sustainability BMW i, there new electric car.  The best part of this place is that it's FREE!  You can take tours and in English for about 7 Euros.

HofBraüHaus
This gigantic restaurant and beer hall is an absolute must.  Allison and I basically lived here.  The beer comes standard in a liter and the food is delicious and reasonably priced.  We liked it because of the atmosphere-there is a polka band and it's great for people watching.  You will find the most Americans here to have conversations with because there are no small tables, they are long and invite lots of different groups to sit together.  You must try their Radlers (Beer and Lemon Lime soda-my favorite), pretzels with their grainy mustard, wieners, Bavarian meatloaf, basically eat as much as you can there! GO GO GO!!!

Englisher Garden
It's huge and absolutely gorgeous!  It is perfect for a hot afternoon to sunbath on it's giant lawns, take in the mini stream with waterfalls, they even have surfing.  No joke, people with their surfboards come and ride the rapid stream that runs through the park.  It's fun to watch.  The park also has a huge beer garden in the middle of it.  Win/Win!

Marion Platz


This is essentially the towns center with town hall right in the middle.  Lots of shopping and restaurants.  In my personal opinion it's the prettiest part of the city.  The couple of blocks that encompass the area are truly beautiful with huge fountains and Gothic architecture.  We were fortunate enough to be there during Munich's birthday celebration so it was very busy with lots of music and dancing!  If you are interested in that, go during the middle of June!

Würzburg

We went here because it is the home of our College German teacher.  It's surrounded by vineyards and filled with many churches.  More than 80% of the city was destroyed during WWII but you wouldn't know it.  It's perfectly restored.  The main physical attraction is the Residence, the palace in the middle of Würzburg.  Definitely take a tour, I think it's less than 10 Euros and it's worth every cent.  If you don't want to, take a look around the Residence for they have a spectacular garden that is free to the public.  In the summer they have a Mozart Festival that is played in the Residence and they also have a huge wine festival.  Also wander up to the Fortress and take the city in! The view is extraordinary.  It's free to get in if you walk, pay if you park.

Nuremberg

A pretty little city!!  It has a lovely old city or Altstadt that I find most enjoyable to see outside at one of the many beer gardens and people watch while eating world famous Nuremberg sausages.  I like eating and I especially like people watching so doing this makes for a very lovely evening in the late spring.  After dinner, take a walk around, get some chocolates and walk to the city beach.  Yes, beach, in the middle of the city.  They bring in tons of sand and set up lots of drink huts, pools, music and beach chairs to enjoy the atmosphere.  During the day go to the Nazi Rally Grounds.  I majored in History so naturally I was drawn to these massive grounds.  There is a museum and I suggest you go to it.  They have little head sets you can rent for dirt cheap and listen to all the different exhibits.  It tells a very sad tale but important and well done.  You must go there, even to just walk around. There are big posts located around the grounds in German and English so no worries on the language barrier if you don't know any German.

Dachau

This is the location of the first concentration camp in Germany located not even a half hour away from Munich. From the train station you get on a the designated bus that takes you there.  It doesn't cost a thing to walk around but you won't get much out of that.  You can rent a handheld listen device for less than 5 Euros at the visitors center and it will explain the exhibits in the museum and the different areas located all around the grounds.  Like the Rally Grounds Museum it's well done.

 If you are hungry before or after, you go to the camp go across the street from the train station to the deli there.  Delicious sandwiches, salads and pastries!! Yummmmyyyy!!

Füssen and Neuschwanstein will be a separate post because there is lots and lots of information plus a ton of pictures that are more beautiful than the last!

General Tips and random observations

 Somethings are universal...

1.) Take an ATM/Credit card and use ATM's to get your cash while you are abroad.  Do not exchange at the airport, banks or any other place because they will take a larger fee than the one at the machine.  Also try to take out money that you know you will need or spend what you have because if you come home and exchange it, it will cost you.  I brought home a 50 Euro note (at the time approx. $68 USD) and the bank charged me 30 DOLLARS to exchange it.  BOGUS!

*The Euro varies in value everyday.  I suggest getting the XE currency app on your phone and monitor it.  The first year I went to Germany for every Euro it was $1.25 USD.  This past summer it went up to $1.32 and went as high as $1.35.  When it's at it average lowest, get your money out of the ATM.


2.) Waitstaff at restaurants actually get paid normal wages in Europe so you don't need to leave giant tips. If you think the service was good a couple of Euros will do.  They have large wallets to do the entire transaction at the table so tip them then.  DO NOT LEAVE IT ON THE TABLE.  If you need to break a large Euro note tell them what you want them to have.

Example: You have a 20, your bill is 14, when you hand them the money tell them 16 and they will give you back 4 Euros :)


3.) You will have lots of change.  I still have lots of change.  They have coins for the following:
1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cents then 1 Euros and 2 Euros.  The lowest bill you will carry is 5 Euros and the highest is 500.

4.) WC's are public bathrooms.  You have to pay to use some of them (mainly in train stations but they are pretty nice), usually not more than a Euro.

5.) Eat lots of ice cream! and for a Euro a scoop you can't really pass that up! Go try to find the Nutella ice cream in the center of Würzburg.  You are welcome in advance ;)

 Pistachio...yum!

6.) Water is essentially seltzer and if you want your water without bubbles you have to tell them (ask for "Still Wasser").  Water is not free and usually comes in a giant bottle for the table.  I suggest buying a large water bottle and filling it up.  Allison did that and it was really helpful.

7.) There is no open container laws in Germany so feel free to drink while you walk.  You can find beer literally every where and it's pretty cheap.  There are so many kinds you can have a different beer at every meal.  I'll probably have a list of beers for you to try while you are there.  So yummy!

 This is ok!

8.) To go along with the above, never ask for light beer (like Bud Light) there.  It simply doesn't exist and they get a little grouchy about it.  Apparently, it's a US and Canada thing.

9.) There is a bicycle lane between the street and the regular sidewalk.  DO NOT WALK IN THE BIKE LANE!  They get super mad and will either do one of the following: a.) Almost hit you. b.) hit you or c) Honk or ring there bell at you.  Just don't do it and you are welcome.

10.) Do not sleep in your contacts on the plane.  You don't want your lenses to dry up and scratch your eyes then end up in the hospital like my aunt did....Not. Fun.

11.) If language is an issue for you, it's helpful to know a few important phrases, stick to the major cities.  They are more prone to speaking English and they don't give you an attitude either.  Actually they are pretty excited to practice which makes it nice but do be considerate, if you know the language speak it.  We'd be generally annoyed if someone came here and didn't bother to speak English to us so think about that when you go :)

12.) Make sure you fill that little Customs paper they give you on the way back where it asks you if you are bring fruit or meat into the country.  Here's a hint: Don't.  They won't let you have it.

Tomorrow!!

Look for new posts tomorrow on general traveling tips, Bavaria, Neuschwanstein and BEER!!

Lots and lots to loom forward to!!